ISO = Film Speed

 

To understand Film Speed we need to go back again to the days of yesteryear for a brief moment when film speed did matter, and it did give you the simulation of speed to a point. ISO 64 speed and 100 was reserved for objects that did not move and for full sun. 200-400 was a good film because it was faster and you could get some stop action and shots in questionable and changing light. We always had this speed in the camera for walk around and around the house roll; it was very versatile and would keep a good quality. 800 and 1600 was serious low light and or action or both, the quality dropped off but you could at least see what you shot.

 

The main thing today that you need to know is that the lower your ISO the more clear your photos will be, the higher the ISO the more noise and artifacts will creep in.

 

A quick story about Uncle Joe. I was asked to take photos for a friend. The lighting was very difficult to say the least. I did my test shots, made my adjustments and determined that I would have to shoot dark in the lowest ISO I could find; which turned out to be 1000 and a slower shutter than I would usually want to use; which was 30. The f-stop on this night was 2.0 with a prime 135mm L lens. Uncle Joe who had followed me onto the field proudly said he could get the shots with no problem. He showed me a sample which was almost too bright. I asked him what ISO he was on and he advised ISO3200. I just smiled. Ok, he did get a memory; which is fine; but he also got a shot that I would never put my name on. Mine turned out crisp and professional and Earned my seal of approval. His go a memory that would go into a scrapbook never to be seen again. No one is going to display or hang it.

 

I am really not blaming or looking down on uncle Joe. Sometimes, all you will be able to get is a memory shot and thats it. But, 99.9% of the time you can; with a little knowledge and patients; get the shot you want. Knowing what to do and when is the key. And, that only comes with practice.

 

So, here is another tip: Unless someone wants to learn and are willing to try AND you have the time. What ever they show you just smile and say, "Oh, thats nice." That really is the best way to handle it.

 

Back to the basics:

 

In general for ISO this is what I would recommend:

 

• ISO 100 and Lower – Outdoors and plenty of daylight. Also, in the studio with a controlled environment.

 

• ISO 200-400 – Inside, dappled light (under trees and shade) any time there is questionable light or when you need a little more speed to stop something like a thrown ball, kids or pets running and such.

 

• ISO 800 will be the end of your line for the most part of your excellent quality. Although, with the new technology the line is getting extended pretty far is this aspect and the future just may surprise both of us as it advances.

 

• ISO 1600 and above is still reserved for low and super low light and when nothing else will do.

 

Don’t stress over this when shooting, your Smart Camera will compensate for what you do and don’t do. You can see it immediately by looking at the screen. This is meant to give you knowledge to build on. Just use the lowest ISO you can for the shot you are taking.