Manual

 

“Manual Photography, What To Know!”

 

First is “f/stop”, second is “light” last is “speed”. And, there are three (3) ways to adjust light: F-stop, ISO and Shutter Speed.” Remember this statement. I will be repeating it several times. If you can remember this you have gained 75% mastery of the mystery of photography. The rest is creativity.

 

The term “Manual” means just that; you are deciding everything f-stop, shutter speed and ISO. So let’s begin.

 

The first question is always: “How do I know what to do?” or “Where do I start?”

 

Ok, first things first.

 

f/STOP (see section on f/Stop alone)

 

I always start with f/Stop and the question, “What do I want in focus?”

 

Answer: This one is pretty straight forward. If I only want a small section or a main subject to be in focus, I will choose f/2.8 (It will give me a nice blurred background and put the focus on my subject.) If I want to choose a large landscape where I want it all in focus, I will go with f/11 or f/16. Everything in the middle is a judgment call (f/4, f/5.6 or f/8) and personal preference.

 

**The lower the f/Stop the more light you will have.

 

We know that we are going to need to set the ISO, the shutter speed and the f-stop. So let’s begin at the ISO (Film Speed).

 

Daytime:

 

• Is it bright and sunny? Answer: ISO 100-200.

 

• Is it overcast? Answer: ISO 200-400.

 

• Is what I am shooting in the shade? Answer: ISO 200-400.

 

• Am I shooting children? Answer: ISO 200-400. (They are fast!)

 

• Is what I am shooting in a mixture or light and shade?  Answer: ISO 100-400.

 

These are suggestions on where to start only. I could have very well have picked ISO 100, 200 or 400 for every one of them and still came out with the perfect shot. The whole key to getting that shot is the amount of light with the correct depth of field.

 

Night:

 

• Is it low light or dark outside? Answer: ISO 800 and above. (keep it as low of a number as you can to get the shot. As you increase in ISO you can get the shot, but more noise will invade the image. *

 

*A note on ISO: While you may have to crank up the ISO to get the shot, don’t be afraid. Ask yourself, “Is it better to have a bad shot of the memory or no memory at all?” I will go with the memory every time. So do not get hung up on “I have to have that clear, perfect shot”. Sometimes it is just not going to happen.

 

**The Higher the ISO the more light you have.

 

Remember: First is “f/stop”, second is “light” last is “speed”. And, there are three (3) ways to adjust light: F-stop, ISO and Shutter Speed.”

 

Shutter Speed

 

Normal Subject Photography

 

The last setting we are dealing with is Shutter Speed and that relates directly to how much light you need in order to get the “Perfect Shot”. When you have dialed in your f/Stop=Depth of Field (What do you want in focus), Chosen your ISO (Depending on subject, setting and time of day) you will adjust your light with the Shutter Speed.

 

If it is during the daytime try starting at 1/250. If it is way too dark on the photo go to 1/60. If it is in the shade or at night, reverse the order. You may need to go higher than 250 but start there.

 

What you are trying to do is dial in the light. And, in order for me to know the correct settings I need to have a high and low range. Meaning, at what setting does the image go dark and what setting does the image get too bright. This will give me the absolute range and once you get that I usually go 2 steps toward what I need (higher (less light) or lower (more light)). In a very short time you will be exactly where you need to be.

 

The one thing I will note here is that I would never do any “People” shots that goes lower than 1/60 of a second. You will give up too much in speed which will make the smallest movements blur.

 

Action Shots

 

Here is where it gets a little sticky, it manageable because we already know the basics. While the basics do not change (f/Stop, ISO and Shutter Speed) we are going to put a heavy balance on Speed. By which I mean that you may want to stop a ball at the end of a bat, a kick with the ball in motion, a header or anything that moves fast and is small. Cars you really will not have to worry with 90% of the time, even moving at 200 mph.

 

The easy way to get the adjustment for this is simple and complicated at the same time. I would adjust the ISO to 400 during the day and 800 at night. The f/Stop in Action Sports will never be over f/5.6 and 95% of the time it will never reach over f/4. At night or in an inside function and if you want to be serious in this realm, you will need f/2.8 period.

 

Set the camera to f/4 and the ISO to 400. Take a shot. Look at the image to see what you got. Turn on the info screen to read your setting. This will give you a base line of your shooting. If I need to increase the Shutter Speed to stop the action, do it. Take another shot and make sure that the photo did not become too light or to dark. Keep a watch on the action you are trying to stop. Make the adjustment and dial in the settings until you get what you want. Sometimes it is not easy, but for the most part stick with the same rule of thumb – ISO, f/Stop and Shutter Speed. If you change one, chances are you will need to change the other two. Be patient, especially when starting out. Get your base line and go from there. Remember ISO, f/stop and Shutter Speed. You can do it.

 

 

Remember:

 

In manual mode there are 3 ways to manipulate the light and it can be done in every setting we are talking about: F-stop, ISO and Shutter Speed.

 

Putting it all together

 

Now here is the really cool thing. You can get the same look in most every photo regardless of the f/Stop, ISO or Shutter Speed! All you have to do is adjust the other 2 setting that you did not change.

 

If you changed the ISO, you will need to change the f/Stop and or Shutter Speed.

 

If you changed the f/Stop, you will need to change the ISO and or Shutter Speed.

 

If you changed the Shutter Speed, you will need to change the f/Stop and or ISO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are even remotely serious about delving into Photography this is a must have tool. It is not only a tool but also your Encyclopedia, Dictionary and Bible. It will provide the answers to your questions and bring you never ending peace. Wondering what settings to shoot under that tree? In the sun? At the Mall? Pick it up and press the button this thing will tell you.

 

Buy one used, buy it new, just buy one one. Put your Camera down and start walking around with it. Test the light everywhere you can. In a very short time you will learn what you thought you knew in terms of lighting and your eyes will start seeing what is really there. It will teach you so much in terms of ISO, F-Stop and Shutter Speed you will not believe it.

 

One of the cool things about light meters is – You picked your film speed (ISO), you picked your F-Stop and you have picked your Shutter Speed. Let’s say for instance that you picked ISO of 400, f/5.6 at 1/125. Now, the kids are moving a little fast and while the room and the lighting is where it needs to be in terms of brightness. But, you need a little more push to capture the action. You really don’t want to spend another 15 minutes at ISO 800 dialing everything in. You pick up the Light Meter, set it to ISO 800 and click the button….BAM, there is your settings.

 

 

The Light Meter is and is not the Magic Wand of everything. What it really does is give you starting points for the light that it sees. I will generally meter several points of the same location in and around the person or object to get the overall reference of the scene. Sometimes when the subject is all that matters I will just meter just next to it (Example: s\Shooting a portrait of 1 person I will place this next to the face and take a reading). Now no matter the ISO, F-Stop or Shutter Speed you can get that exact image every time.

 

I want to restate that one more time – I get a reference for the photo. I can then adjust the setting until I get the look that I want…maybe a little darker….maybe a little lighter. Regardless that is preference and style. Even though I may change some of the settings this is the most valuable tool in your bag. And, if you move on to Studio work this will be a required tool that you can not do with out.

 

The Light Meter is a great tool, but you do not have the money to invest right now. Or, you have bought one and left the dog on thing at home. Don’t worry, that Camera you have in your hand can do the job good enough to get by and it is called…The “Auto” Setting. That’s right, it is not as good but it does work. When in doubt flip it over take a shot, read the settings…go back to Manual Mode and start from there. It’s the same thing just a different way and when in a pinch it does the job.

 

Special Note: If the flash keeps popping and you don’t want it to, use the “P” Mode. It will keep the flash down and give you the readings to start with.